Landscapes

View of Saba’s north coast during an exceptionally calm day at sea

View of Torrens Point and Diamond Rock from Well’s Bay on Saba in the Dutch Caribbeans.

The original steps that Sabans used to access the island are known as The Ladder. Prior to the building of the Fort Bay harbour, goods were brought by boat to the rocky shore of the leeward coast. Sabans carried the cargo to the village by foot up the nearly vertical stairway, which consists of 524 steep and narrow steps. The steps were hand-hewn from stone, and they were the only way to get from the sea to the island villages for many years.

Excerpt from the new Saba Trail Guide by Tom van't Hof:

The Tidepools

Access: From the road below the airport to Cove Bay.
Time: 30 minutes
Degree of difficulty: an easy walk to the bluff overlooking the tidepools; a steep scramble over rocks to get down to the pools
Special features: lava flows; colorful saltwater pools with abundant marine life; ruins of indigo boiling house

WARNING: Only get close to the tidepools when the ocean is calm. Every so often there will be a couple of larger waves (waves travel in groups) and you don’t want to be surprised by those! Viewing the tidepools from above is fairly easy. Going down to the tidepools, however, is for the more adventurous with good footwear only.

The trail starts in an open area with low scrubby vegetation. The only large tree at the beginning is a White Cedar. Along the trail are some Seagrape trees and among the shrubs you find Bay Withe and Black Cherry with its sharp spines. When the trail forks bear left and stay high up along the airport fence. This will take you to a vantage point with a lookout to the Northeast over the first tidepool (it’s also a good place to see the planes taking off). To go down to this pool retrace your steps, descend towards the sign and bear left. There is no trail and it’s a scramble over rocks.

To look at the other pools go back to where the trail forks and bear right (Southeast). Follow the paint blazes on the rocks. The stone wall on the left of the trail is the ruin of a boiling house, most likely for processing indigo. What is left is the so-called train where the fires were stoked. At the top of the hill you will have a view of the second pond. Follow the trail to the last paint blaze, go down on the left side of this rock and scramble down until you have a view of the third pool. This one has most life in it, lots of sea urchins in particular. It is possible to go all the way down to this pool but it is not for the faint-hearted!

On your way back you can pass between the old stone walled pens (probably used as cattle pens in the past) for a relaxed view of Cove Bay, Kelbey’s Ridge, Spring Bay and Old Booby Hill.

The tide pools near the airport on Saba in the Dutch Caribbean. Don’t get too close, because waves can be unpredictable, especially during rough seas in the winter months, usually from November to March. It is not a good area for a swim as dangerous rip current are common in the area.

View of the neighboring islands St. Eustatius, St. Kitts, Nevis and Montserrat from The Road on Saba.

View of Giles Quarter on Saba in the Dutch Caribbean. You can see parts of The Road and St. Eustatius in the background.

Morning hike on the Spring Bay Trail on Saba with St. Eustatius in the background

The village of Upper Hell’s Gate, nowadays Zion’s Hill, on Saba in the Dutch Caribbean.

In 1967, a concrete stairway of 1064 steps was built to the top of Mt. Scenery, which is the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. The trail was upgraded in 2017 and fitted with hand-railings at the steepest parts for additional safety. This trail meanders through secondary rain forest to the almost-pristine Elfin Forest at its peak. The lower slopes are characterized by cactus species, Sea Grape trees, and a wide variety of wild flowers. Higher on the mountain are Mountain Palms and several species of Tree Ferns. Elephant Ears and wild banana trees are also abundant at this altitude. The Elfin Forest at the summit is a climax vegetation community with Mountain Mahogany as the dominant species.

The climb up Mt. Scenery can be strenuous, but the natural beauty along the way is rewarding. Aside from the very rich vegetation bird life is plentiful along the trail and reptiles and amphibians can also be seen.

Mt. Scenery is one of Saba's best-known hiking adventures. The trail begins in Windwardside at 400m (1300ft) and the peak is 877m (2877ft) above sea level. Views of the neighboring islands and Saba's beautiful villages are highlights once you reach the top of the mountain.

Turpentine trees are a dry forest species that easily grow up to 18 meters (60 feet). Their reddish bark peels off in thin sheets. Hence the nickname “tourist tree” - always red and peeling 😉. The wood is soft and contains a resin, which has numerous medicinal properties. It is used as gum substitute, glue and a natural insect repellent. Their leaves can be boiled as a tea substitute. Branches sometimes act as live fences: you stick them in the ground and they will root and grow quickly. Furthermore, their deep roots prevent soil erosion and are planted to stabilize steep slopes.

Vie of St. John’s and Thais Hill from the Windwardside Lookout on top of Mt. Scenery.

Cloud shrouded summit of Mt. Scenery

Vines and lush vegetation in the Elfin Forest on Mount Scenery

Part of the Buds Mountain trail, near the Elfin Forest on Saba.

Few person hike to the top of Mt. Scenery to experience the iconic Caribbean sunsets. The way back down can be treacherous in the dark and very slippery when wet. Hence, it is recommended to return to the village before last day’s light. This is a lesser issue during the summer time, but the sunsets in the winter are usually more dramatic.

Camera equipment: Nikon D850 with Tokina 24-70 mm lens.
Shot taken on December 1st, 2020
Exposure: 1/400 sec at f / 9,0; ISO 250
Focal length: 24 mm

The festive season in the Caribbean is also the time of dramatic sunrises. View of Statia, St. Kitt’s & Nevis.